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January
Let's begin the year as many gentlemen and ladies did: by spending the winter season in a bustle of activity and amusement in town, whether it be London, Bath, or another fashionable resort. With a busy schedule of concerts, theatre, balls, and other social engagements, an appropriate and fashionable wardrobe was essential.
On the left is an Evening Full Dress, the very first fashion plate published by Ackermann's Repository in January 1809. The image on the right is also an Evening Dress, from January 1815.
The 1809 Evening Full Dress is described as follows:
"A white satin Spanish hat with a diamond loop and Spanish plume; diamond earrings and necklace; the hair full, in ringlets; a white satin dress, full trimmed with blue velvet, with a lace medicis round the back and shoulders; an antique stomacher mounted in gold; white satin shoes with gold bows; white gloves and fan."
The 1815 Evening Dress is described as follows:
"A celestial blue crape frock, over a white satin slip, ornamented round the bottom with a deep border of tull or net lace, embroidered with shaded blue silks and chenille; short full sleeve, trimmed with tull or net lace; the dress trimmed entirely round the top, to correspond.
"Hair parted in the centre of the forehead, confined in the Grecian style, and blended with flowers. Necklace of pearl; ear-drops and bracelets to correspond. Slippers of blue satin or kid. White gloves of French kid.
"The Fashions for this month, and those for the whole of the last year, are from the designs of Mrs. Bean, of Albemarle-street. This lady, since her visit to Paris, has incorporated in her dresses, in the style of French costume, all that is to be admired in the exuberant varieties which that country produces; and has moderated the same by a fancy governed by a chaste feeling peculiar to herself. We were much delighted on viewing the splendid dresses in the Magazin des Modes of this lady." |
General Observations on fashion for January 1809:
Nacaratt royal purple and gold are the most prevailing colours for pelisses and mantles, which are made of various materials, cloth, velvet, brocade, sarsenet, and satin, according to the fancy of the wearer. Head ornaments, Spanish hats, and caps decorated with feathers, flowers, pearls, or diamonds, according as the occasion requires
Morning Dress: cloth, sarsenet, Brussels spotted muslin, trimmed with embroidery.
Evening Dress: satin, velvet, brocade, sarsenet, with gold or silver ornaments, and trimmings.
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February
The winter social season continues, and this delightful pair of ladies will liven up your desktop as well!
On the left is a Dancing Dress, published in February 1809. The image on the right is a Walking Dress or Carriage Costume, from February 1811.
The 1809 Dancing Dress is described as follows:
"The head ornamented with bandeaus of frosted gold; gold necklace, ear-rings, and armlets; white satin opera dress, trimmed all around with gold, tied in front with a gold cord and tassel; white satin shoes, trimmed with gold, and gold button in front; white gloves, and fan edged with gold."
The 1811 Walking Dress or Carriage Costume is described as follows:
"A military coat or pelisse of amber-coloured velvet, or Merino cloth, with Spanish cuffs, and high fluted collar, trimmed entirely round with Astracan fur. A round tippet of the same, and ridicule composed of the same material as the coat. An Algerine helmet cap of the same, blended with Astracan fur, ornamented in front with an amber crescent and chain of silver. Gloves a pale tan colour, and half-boots of amber-coloured kid." |
General Observations on fashion for February 1809:
The prevailing colours for mantles and pelisses are gold, orange, and Bishop's blue; for ball and full dress, satins, tissues, brocaded silks, and velvets are generally worn, trimmed with gold and silver; Henry VIII. hats, trimmed or embroidered with beads, gold, silver, or chenille, are becoming and fashionable; feathers of various colours to correspond are likewise much worn. For morning dresses, bombazeens are coming into fashion; the prevailing colour, dark, purple, or Bishop's blue.
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March
This month's wallpaper is graced by two Opera Dresses: on the right, March 1809; on the left, March 1811.
The 1809 Opera Dress is described as follows:
"Henry the Eighth hat of purple velvet trimmed with pearls, a dress of the same colour, with a white satin front trimmed with pearls, and fastened down the front with large white round pearls; a white satin Spanish mantle trimmed with swan-down; white shoes and gloves, pearl ear-rings and necklaces, white and silver fans."
The 1811 Opera Dress is described as follows:
"A simple French frock of white gossamer satin-sarsnet, or crape, with a short sleeve, edged at its several terminations with narrow silver braiding: cestus and clasp to suit. A short Roman tunic coat, of pale amber-shot sarsnet, or velvet, with short standing collar, trimmed down each side with broad white lace. The coat thrown open in front of the figure. Necklace and ear-rings of pearl, or Mocho stone. Hair in waved curls in front, simply confined on the crown with a pearl or other ornamental comb. Slippers the same as the coat, with small silver clasps. Gloves of white kid." |
General Observations on fashion for March 1809:
The prevailing colours this month, are rose, green, and purple of various materials, silk, satins, and plain velvets, ornamented with gold and silver, pearls, or embroidery. Satin caps and hats, with short white feathers are generally worn. Small morning or walking hats, trimmed with silk frivolity, are an entire new and very elegant article. Mantles and pelisses of various forms are still much worn for morning dresses.
White is again become the favourite colour, and great variety is displayed in the materials and form. Flowers are now beginning to appear again in morning and evening caps. The most fashionable style of wearing the hair is in ringlets à la Ninon; the shoes are embroidered in gold or silver for dress, and for undress in silk, chenille, or ribbon.
We have the pleasure to inform our fair readers, that the fashions for the present month have been again furnished by Madame Lanchester, whose taste and elegance stand so high in the estimation of the fashionable world.
Fashions for Gentlemen, March 1809:
Evening Dress: The reigning colours for this month are claret and corbeau, with plain, flat, silk buttons; the coat rather long in the waist, and short in the skirts, double-breasted, with lappels, high collar, thin padding, and to fall back full three inches; the pockets under the cross-flaps, cuffs five inches and a half long, with three buttons at top.
Waistcoats are made of white marseilles and fancy silks, single-breasted, with narrow flaps, rather long. Breeches of drab silk hose, not made very high; the knee-band low, with four or five buttons at the knee. They are made rather tight.
Morning Dress: The coats worn for morning dress are generally of dark colours and sage mixed, single-breasted, with short regimental skirts, no flaps, high collars, stitched narrow, and to fall back about three inches. Buttons either gilt, or silver basket, or moulds covered with cloth.
Waistcoasts double-breasted, made of silk striped Valentia.
In consequence of the excessive advance in the price of superfine cloths and kerseymeres, the leaders of the haut ton have resolved to revive the fashion of wearing leather breeches and boots, which some years since so particularly distinguished English gentlemen from mechanics and servants.
The preceding observations were communicated to us by Messrs. Anstey and Saxe, South Molton-street.
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April
As most of the ladies have had to stand up since January, April's pair is sitting down for a well-earned rest.
The gown on the right is a Full Dress from April 1809. The gown on the left is a Ball Dress from April 1812.
The 1809 Full Dress is described as follows:
"White satin dress, with purple body, and long sleeves slashed at the top; bows of purple ribbon down the front. Mantle of purple, lined with white silk, bordered with gold, and edged with swansdown. Gold net cap with white feathers. White shoes, gloves, and fan. Necklace, ear-rings, and other ornaments, of gold."
The 1812 Ball Dress is described as follows:
"A round Circassian robe of pink crape, or gossamer net, over a white satin slip, fringed full at the feet; a peasant's bodice of pink satin or velvet, laced in front with silver, and decorated with the same ornament. Spanish slash sleeve, embellished with white crape foldings, and finished at its termination with bands of silver. A Spartan or Calypso helmet cap of pink frosted crape, with silver bandeaus, and embellished with tassels, and rosets to correspond. A rich neck-chain and ear-rings of Oriental gold. Fan of carved ivory. Slippers of pink kid, with correspondent clasps; and gloves of white kid: an ocasional square veil of Mechlin lace." |
General Observations on fashion for April 1809:
Red cloaks are at length completely abandoned, and we congratulate our lovely readers on their emancipation from the most despotic dress that ever was introduced by the whimsical and arbitrary goddess of fashion. The writer of this article predicted, on their first appearance, that a colour so disadvantageous to beauty, could never become prevalent. "Let them," said he, "enwrap themselves with an immense blaze of red, it will come to nothing at last." And so it has turned out: our promenades presented us with an assemblage of pallid and ghastly spectres, who, though "forbidden to tell the secrets of their prison-house," carried about with them the visible signs of torture, and appeared literally robed in flame.
Pea-green is a colour generally introduced in the spring, for what reason we know not, except it be intended to harmonize with the verdure with which, at this season, all nature is beginning to be clothed, though some may doubt whether a notion of harmony ever entered the inventive brain of a fashionable dress-maker. However this may be, we must enter our decided protest against it; and we entreat our fair readers not to adopt a colour so directly in opposition to good taste, and in which no face or form, be it majestic in June, or beautiful as Hebe, can ever appear with advantage and effect. Lilac, purple, all the varieties of blue, with the still greater varieties of grey, are open to their choice. If green must be selected, let it be the deep and rich hue of the Spanish fly, rather than that worst and vilest of all colours; pea-green.
Mr. Adair's treaty with the Sublime Porte will doubtless introduce amongst our spring fashions a profusion of Turkish turbans, Janizary jackets, mosque slippers, and a thousand similar whimsicalities: all of which (provided a northern coalition be accomplished) must speedily give way to Russian cloaks, hussar caps, Cossack mantles, Danish robes, &c. &c. so that by the setting in of the dog-days, our ladies will stand a chance of being arrayed in the complete costume of all the shivering nations of the north. Such is the capricious system introduced and acted upon in the empire of the despotic goddess of fashion! When shall the dress of the British fair be established upon the simple and unerring principles of nature? and when shall those principles be adopted as the barometer of good taste? We have not the vanity to promise ourselves the complete accomplishment of these objects; but to that end all our endeavours shall be directed. Nothing shall appear in our pages but what is strictly compatible with good taste, so that while we discover and expose error, we will not be wanting in our endeavours to point out the remedy.
Fashions for Gentlemen, April 1809:
The prevailing colours for both dress and morning coats, are dark blue, olive, and bottle green, with silver and gilt basket buttons; long waist and short skirt; but upon the whole, the fashionable coat is very short, and must not come lower than within four inches of the knee. The lappels are rather long, and come even with the hip buttons. The collar is made high, thinly padded, and to fall back two inches.
The dress coat has round cuffs without buttons, with pockets under flaps; the morning coat, sleeves with slits, and three large buttons. The sleeves are worn very long.
The waistcoat is single breasted; flaps, with small regimental skirts; the collar within that of the coat; it is made of striped marcella of various shades, but buff colours are the most fashionable. Breeches of a light drab colour, made rather long and tight. For pantaloons, the stuffs generally worn are double-milled stocking and Prince of Wales's striped kerseymere.
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May
The gown on the left is a Ball Dress from May 1809. The gown on the right is a Promenade Dress from May 1810.
The 1809 Ball Dress is described as follows:
"White satin slip, under a crape dress, made to fit the figure very exactly, cut open in front, and bound all around with white satin ribbon and a row of beads, linked together in front with bands of beads loosely suspended at distances; short sleeves the same. Fan richly spangled. Pearl necklace, with diamond clasp in front; ear-rings and bracelets to suit. White shoes striped in scarlet or blue. Hair in ringlets on the forehead, and lightly turned up behind with a diamond comb. Petticoats very short."
Here is a gown inspired by the 1809 Ball Dress. It was created by Tamara Fidler and worn at the 2007 JASNA AGM.
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General Observations on fashion for May 1809:
Spanish hats, which have been worn all the winter, with feathers, for full dress, are now converted into walking hats, substituting flowers instead of feathers. Straw hats and bonnets, ornamented with flowers, and white silk hats, are making their appearance for the season. Light silk mantles, of all colours, are much worn. Spencers, of a beautiful grey, ornamented with silver, not buttoned, but tied loosely at the neck, form a most elegant dress. The Scotia silk, introduced in the last number, is now in great request for dresses, as is also the spotted muslin. Colours vary with the taste of the individual; silver grey is unquestionably the most elegant and the most fashionable. The attempt to introduce long waists has completely failed; they have not, nor will they ever become fashionable. The full dress of this number is the present standard.
I happened to be in a family party of ladies on the evening of the publication of the last month's Repository: the moment it was introduced, the dresses became the subject of critical animadversion, and the essay attached to them under the title "General Observations," was read aloud for the entertainment of the company. Various (as may be supposed) were the comments of the fair hearers. I was pleased to find that scarlet was given up to its fate without a pang: the colour, however, was out of fashion and out of season, so that I could not congratulate myself much on the victory. Green, on the contrary, found its admirers and supporters. Green! cool, lovely, refreshing green! — Green, the universal livery of nature! These and similar exclamations from the lovely lips of accomplished beauty, made me almost waver in my opinion, and tempted me to recal the anathema pronounced against it. This was not all.
The passage soon occurred in which the writer looks forward to the time when "the dress of the British fair shall be established on the simple and unerring principles of nature." — Here the lovely reader made a sudden pause. — "Principles of nature," she repeated (as if to ascertain whether she had heard the author aright), and at the same instant the "principles of nature" was echoedthrough the room, accompanied by all the marks of confused apprehension. The whole of the passage was repeated — still nothing could be made of it. At length a maiden lady, with a prudish gravity of aspect and contemptuous elevation of nose, observed, that, in her opinion, it was mere impudence. — "Nature indeed!" said she. "It would make the ghosts of our grandmothers blush, could they see how much of nature is already exposed — and has this fellow the assurance to wish for more? For my own part, I was not without the hope of seeing the modish innovations of the present day set aside, and the hoop petticoat, with all its modest and becoming appendages, again introduced into the circles of fashion: — but if this fellow be permitted to go on — really I have not patience to think of it — I will write myself to the Bishop of London, or to the Society for the Suppresion of Vice, and get a stop put to his impudence."
All this, and much more, was I, in my character of incognito, compelled to listen to; and now I again make my appearance, to defend myself from so dreadful a charge. I only entreat to be heard out, and I promise that even the fastidious delicacy of "Cœlebs" (who is now become the fashionable monitor) shall find nothing to object to in all that has been advanced.
It has been the aim of all nations to convert those garments which the climate renders necessary, into something decorative and ornamental; and as long as the decorations are kept in subordination to the object decorated, they will be in good taste, but no longer; the moment dress becomes principal, all beauty and consistency is lost. That dress, then, which displays as much of the form as is required by grace, without infringing the laws of modesty — which shall leave the limbs to act with the greatest ease to the wearer, and the most agreeable effect on the eye of the beholder, and admit only such ornaments as will add to, rather than diminish the beauty of the face and figure, may, in strict propriety, be said to be composed upon the principles of nature.
But my limits will not admit of enlarging at present on this idea. I will resume the subject next month, and will endeavour then to lay down some general rules for the adaptation of the colours introduced in dress to the various characters and complexions of the lovely wearers.
ARBITER ELEGANTIARUM.
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June
The gown on the left is a Walking Dress from June 1809. The gown on the right is a Ball Dress from June 1815.
The 1809 Walking Dress is described as follows:
"Spotted muslin under-dress,over which a light coat, bordered with cerulean blue. Blue silk head-dress, bound round with silver cords and tassels. Blue silk scarf, lined with white; silver border and tassels. White shoes edged with blue. York tan gloves."
The 1815 Ball Dress is described as follows:
"A frock of French figured gauze, worn over a slip of white satin; the frock trimmed at the feet with a deep flounce of blond lace, and decorated with wreaths of lilac; the fronts of the body ornamented with a cope of blond lace; short full sleeve, trimmed to correspond. Stockings of elastic silk. Slippers white silk or kid. Gloves French kid, drawn over the elbow. Hair in irregular curls, blended with a wreath of lilac."
This month's extra feature is a set of fashionable head dresses from June, 1811. Click on the small image to the left to enlarge.
#1, top left: The beehive hat of lemon coloured chip, or pearl straw, with small Angola feather waving in front. This hat, it should be remembered, seems exclusively to belong to the very youthful female.
#2, top right: A promenade head-dress, consisting of a simple cottage bonnet of white satin, ornamented with a Persian rose in front. A long mantilla veil, of white lace, thrown entirely over the whole.
#3, center: An evening head-dress, composed of the antique or old English fly-cap, formed of crimson shot silk, finished at the edge with two rows of fine pearls or beads, and a star or small rosette in front. None but the white robe can display this unique and elegant head-dress to advantage.
#4, bottom left: The hamlet hat of straw or chip, tied under the chin with white ribbon, and ornamented with two curled ostrich feathers, waving towards one side. This head-dress belongs to the morning or walking costume.
#5, bottom right: A carriage head-dress. A full band of turban muslin, sitting close to the side of the face. A Flemish bonnet of white satin, edged with a raised chenille border, and ornamented in front with small jonquil flower. This head-dress is at once unique, fashionable, and simply elegant. |
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July
This month's gowns are both Promenade Dresses: on the right, July 1809; on the left, July 1811.
The 1809 Promenade Dress is described as follows:
"A round high frock of fine French cambric, or the most delicate plain muslin, trimmed at the feet, wrists, and throat, with a fine Vandyke lace; the bosom formed in alternate stripes of footing lace and needlework. A Tyrolese cloak, of shaded lilac sarsnet, edged with Venetian binding, and terminated with a trimming of broad white lace, put on full. A double frill of the same around the throat, clasped in front with silver or cut steel. The hair dressed compact, in the Grecian style. A veil à la Maltese, of the most transparent texture, edged in rich vandykes, is thrown with simple elegance over the whole, softening the countenance which it partially displays. Sometimes the head is covered with a small French cap of silk, the same as the cloak, or of a well-contrasted colour. Parasol to correspond with the cloak, with deep white Chinese awning. Slippers of the same, or of lemon coloured kid. Gloves, Limerick or York tan."
The 1811 Promenade Dress is described as follows:
"A white jaconot muslin high dress, a walking length, ornamented round the bottom: cuffs and collar, with a Tuscan border, in tambour. A sea-green sarsnet spencer, ornamented with silver Maltese buttons, and barrel frogs to correspond, worn occasionally open in front, and confined at the throat with cord and tassels. French watch and chain worn outside, suspended in front from the bottom of the waist. Hair in dishevelled curls, confined with a gold or shell comb at the back of the head. A large transparent white veil thrown over the whole. Chinese parasol; gold mounted ridicule; and half-boots similar in shade to the spencer. Gloves of pale primrose or buff kid." |
Fashions for Gentlemen, July 1809:
Full Dress.
The most
fashionable colours for coats are olive green, dark blue, and black, with covered buttons, long waists, broad at the bottom and short in the skirts, double breasted, with pointed lappels, corresponding in length with the hip buttons. The collar is worn high behind, and to come down low in front. Sleeves long with round cuffs, and pockets under the cross flaps. White marcella waistcoat, and light-coloured single cassimere breeches, worn long.
Morning or Walking Dress.
Mixed, bottle-green, Vandyke brown, and Spanish blue are the most prevailing colours for morning coats. They are made in every respect as the dress coat except that they have gilt basket buttons, sleeves with slits and three buttons, and pockets in the plaits of the skirts. Waistcoat, shawl pattern and various striped marcellas, light-coloured double-milled cassimere pantaloons and half-boots, or nankeen trowsers and gaiters.
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August
We continue to stroll through summer: the gown on the right is a Walking Costume from August 1809, and the gown on the left is a Walking Dress from August 1811. This month's extra feature is a look at fashions for children.
The 1809 Walking Costume and child's dress are described as follows:
"A vestal robe of the finest India muslin or cambric, with a border of lace or needle-work round the feet, and continued up the front. An Austrian spencer, with carmelite hood, composed of white or silver-grey satin, or of Paris net, with an appliqued border of French lace or Chinese trimming, confined at the throat with a silk cord and tassel. A cornelian cross, suspended from a gold elastic chain. French watch, worn on the outside of the robe; the seals disposed in the center of the bosom, by way of a broach. Parasol corresponding with the spencer. Shoes and gloves of lemon-coloured kid."
Child's Dress.
"A frock of fine cambric, with small tucks round the bottom. An Andalusian cosaque, or short coat, of the same, ornamented with a jonquille, or lemon-coloured border. A long silk throat-scarf of the same colour, tied loosely at the bosom, and finished with rich tassels. A Spanish hat of imperial chip, or plaited straw. Gloves and slippers the same colour as the scarf."
The 1811 Walking Dress and child's dress are described as follows:
"A round high robe, with full long sleeve, trimmed with vandyke lace at the throat and cuffs, and ornamented round the bottom with a Tuscan border in needle-work. A short capuchin cloak of buff-coloured shot sarsnet, fastened with broaches on the shoulders, and trimmed with deep Chinese silk fringe of the same shade. A Moorish turban bonnet, gathered into a broach in center of the forehead. Purple ridicule, with gold snap and tassels. Half-boots of buff-coloured kid. Parasol with deep Indian awning, the same as the cloak."
Child's Dress.
"A short-sleeve Spanish vest and trowsers in one; an Indian dimity waistcoat with long sleeves, and collar trimmed with a narrow border of muslin. High shoes, of purple or black morocco. A college cap, of purple velvet, with crimson band." |
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September
After spending the summer examining walking and promenade dresses, we begin autumn with a look at fashions for special occasions. The gown on the left is a Mourning Dress from September 1809, and the gown on the right is a Glengarry Riding Habit from September 1817.
The 1809 Mourning Dress and child's dress are described as follows:
"As many of our discerning and tasteful correspondents have hinted to us the utility of occasionally presenting them with a mourning, we take advantage of the present period to comply with their wishes. Fahsion and novelty seem at this moment to require from their votaries a cessation from their general labours, and individual taste and invention are left to sport at pleasure in that elegant simplicity of attire which at this season takes place, of the spendid decoration which distinguishes the more brilliant parties of the metropolis.
Our plate will be found to represent a lady and her infant in slight mourning habits: the former composed of black gossamer net, or imperial gauze, worn over a white satin slip. A demi-traine. A round frock front, and short French sleeves, each edged with a rich vandyke lace. A cestus of white satin, edged with gold bullion, finished in front with a rich cord and cone tassels, suspended from topaz studs. Pearl necklace and bracelets, with topaz snaps. Hair in the eastern style, with a Spartan diadem, and comb of topaz or gold. A Circassian scarf of grey Spanish silk, with a Tuscan border in black embroidery, and tassels to correspond; confined on one shoulder with a topaz broach. Shoes of grey satin, with clasps of jet, or rosettes of black bugles. White gloves of French kid; and fan of black crape, with gold spangled devices.
In deep mourning, this robe should
be formed of black crape, and worn over black sarsnet. The ornaments and trimmings of every description must be of bugles or jet. The shoes of queen's silk. The scarf, black crape or imperial silk, spotted and bordered with bugles. Jet tassels and broach."
Child's Dress.
"The child's dress is a simple frock of black crape muslin, tucked small, and worn over a cambric skirt. A plain net-lace tucker, and cap en suite. Grey kid slippers, with black clasps."
The 1817 Glengarry Habit is described as follows:
"The Glengary [sic] Habit is composed of the finest pale blue cloth, and richly ornamented with frogs and braiding to correspond. The front, which is braided on each side, fastens under the body of the habit, which slopes down on each side in a very novel style, and in such a manner as to form the shape to considerable advantage. The epaulettes and jacket are braided to correspond wtih the front, as is also the bottom of the sleeve, which is braided nearly half way up the arm. Habit-shirt, composed of cambric, with a high standing collar, trimmed with lace. Cravat of soft muslin, richly worked at the ends, and tied in a full bow. Narrow lace ruffles. Head-dress, the Glengary cap, composed of blue satin, and trimmed with plaited ribbon of various shades of blue, and a superb plume of feathers. Blue kid gloves, and half-boots.
We are indebted to the taste and invention of Miss M'Donald of 29, Great Russel-Street, Bedford-square, for both our dresses this month."
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Fashions for Gentlemen, September 1809:
Morning or Walking Dress.
Dark blue and hare-back mixture are the fashionable colours of the day. Long waists still keep their ground: lappels long in proportion, with only four, or, at the utmost, five, large gilt buttons: short skirt—collar high, to stand off—low in front—sleeves long—flap with three buttons, and the same number in the plaits. Silk-striped quilting, or marcella double-breasted waistcoat. Drab-coloured kerseymere breeches. Stocking pantaloons and half-boots. Nankeen trowsers and gaiters, or kerseymere pantaloons and gaiters in one.
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October
The gown on the left is a Ball Dress from October 1809, and the gown on the right is an Evening Dress from October 1813.
The 1809 Ball Dress is described as follows:
"A light blue, or grey chemise robe, of gossamer net, imperial crape, or Spanish gauze, worn over white pealing satin, ornamented up the front with French bows and knots of silver. A full melon sleeve, formed of the same material as the dress, and alternate stripes of white satin; finished with bows and knots of silver. A double roll of white satin round the neck of the robe, by way of tucker. Hair falling in natural and irregular curls on the forehead; confined in a bow and curled ends, or in plaited braids, at the back of the head, with a diamond comb. Diamond bandeau, with necklace, armlets, and drop ear-rings of the same. Slippers of white satin, with silver clasps, French kid gloves, just escaping the elbow. Fan of carved ivory."
The 1813 Evening Dress is described as follows:
"A pea-green crape frock, worn over a white gossamer satin slip, with short sleeves of white lace, and waist biassed with lace beading; a deep flounce of lace round the feet, headed with silver netting, the bottom of the sleeves and back finished to correspond. Hair in curls and ringlets, confined on the crown of the head, and intermixed with autumnal flowers. Ear-rings and other ornaments of pearl. Gloves of white French kid; and slippers of pea-green satin, trimmed with silver."
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General Observations on female fashions for October 1809:
In reply to the repeated and anxious enquiries of the readers of the Repository after their Arbiter Elegantiarum, I now re-appear, for the purpose of assuring my fair friends that I am still living, and still as much as ever devoted to their service; and when the flying camp of fashion shall be given up for winter quarters, I shall be found at my post, armed at all points, prepared to guard the sacred haunts against the inroads of folly and caprice, and to repel the attacks of that powerful and merciless enemy to beauty — bad taste.
To let my readers into a secret, I must tell them that there has been some policy in this suspension of arms. My system of warfare was of so novel a kind, my attacks so general, and my plans so extensive, that it became necessary to wait a while, and observe the impressions made by the first onset. It will be recollected that my attack was not directed against any particular cap, bonnet, handkerchief, cloak, or mantle, but against the whole system (if system it may be called) of fashionable decoration; and I must take to myself this credit, that, unlike other warriors, who are stimulated by the love of power or the pride of conquest, and whose chief aim is to destroy; the ultimate end of my warfare has been to enlighten and improve — to furnish my fair country-women with the means of adding force to those charms with which nature has so liberally and abundantly endowed them — to make ordinary features interesting, and beauty omnipotent.
Another reason for suspending my strictures, was the hope that some of my readers would be tempted to enter the lists with me in the way of argument, and that others might furnish hints in corroboration of my views. In this I have not been disappointed. One lady has, indeed, attacked my system in rhyme, and has declared, in the name of her sex, that, in spite of reason, sense, and taste, ladies will still continue to dress — just as they please.
In a future number, I will endeavour to answer both my poetial and prose correspondents; but, for the present, I can only observe, that no argument has been adduced, nor has anything in my own experience occurred, to shake my faith in the general rules which I had last winter the honor first to systematize and promulgate.
ARBITER ELEGANTIARUM.
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November
The gown on the left is a Walking Dress from November 1814, and the gown on the right is a Morning Walking Dress from November 1809.
The 1809 Morning Walking Dress is described as follows:
"A petticoat and Roman tunic of fine thin cambric, long sleeves, and high collar, interjoined and trimmed with lace; the tunic finished at the bottom with a border of fretwork. A jubilee cloak of bright amber velvet, or shaded gold-coloured sarsnet, trimmed entirely round with swansdown, and confined at the center of the throat with a rich cord and tassels of blended silk and gold. The cottager's hat, of imperial-coloured straw, tied simply under the chin with a white ribbon. Parasol, gloves, and shoes, of correspondent shades with the hat."
The 1814 Walking Dress is described as follows:
"An Italian striped sarsnet lilac-coloured dress, ornamented round the bottom with a double quilling of satin ribband; short full sleeve, trimmed to correspond; the fronts of the dress open to cross the bosom and form an open stomacher; a Vandyke French ruff, and full bordered cap to correspond. The satin straw hat, tied under the chin with a check or striped Barcelona handkerchief, crossing the crown with a small plume of ostrich feathers in the front. French shawl, a white twill, embroidered with shaded scarlet and green silks, and fancifully disposed on the figure. Gloves, Limerick or York tan, drawn over the elbow. Half-boots of York tan or pale buff kid."
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General Observations on female dress for November 1809:
The observations for the present month will be devoted to the form of dress; and here I shall endeavour to point out to my fair readers, the same grand and leading principle for which I so strenuously contended in the essays on colour and complexion, namely, that dress should be regulated by character, rather than by fashion.
The common classifications of form are familiar to every one, and the terms, round, full, long, thin, &c. as applied to faces; and short, tall, slender, embonpoint, as applied to figure, convey to the mind of the hearer the idea of a class, the individuals of which are infinitely varied. To general distinctions only can any observations of mine apply; all besides must be left to the taste of the individual.
Unfortunately, as it happens in the case of complexion, where the brunette is ever sighing for a fair skin, so with regard to figure, the short wish to be tall, the large to be slender, and the slender sigh in vain for embonpoint. Now I would wish to convince my fair readers, that these desires are as absurd as they are hopeless; I would persuade them, that the endeavour to appear what we are not, is as erroneous in dress as in morals, and that it as invariably fails in its object; no one is ever deceived by it. Setting aside, then, the obvious error of elderly ladies dressing as though they were in the bloom of youth and beauty, there are other combinations which, though not so generally remarked, are equally incongruous, and equally offensive to the eye of taste. The imperial purple and the flowing robe accord as ill with the "nose cocked in air," as angular forms, ribbons, and other petty matters of dress, with the grand lines and majestic symmetry of the tragedy queen. Let harmony be our guide, and all will be right. Unerring nature distributes to all some distinct beauty, some interesting peculiarity, some characteristic charm. Let it be our business, then, to call forth and improve these latent graces; and let the lusty, instead of binding herself with tightening ligatures, to produce a slim appearance, or the slim, attempting to swaddle and swell herself into embonpoint, adopt a dress, which, from its analogy to the form of the wearer, shall improve what is beautiful, and hide what is defective. Let the Grecian face and figure be clothed with the utmost simplicity; let the large, the majestic, the Juno-like form, on the contrary, be vested in full and flowing robes of satin or velvet, with ample train and swelling folds; and let the small-featured, sparkling, vivacious countenance, with the small, bewitching figure, select, for its characteristic covering, forms more angular, and contrasts more abrupt.
This idea of harmony may be pursued through all the infinitely varied shades of character, and will furnish matter for future observations of
ARBITER ELEGANTIARUM.
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December
The year in fashion concludes with an Evening Dress from December 1812 on the left, and December 1809's Tyrolese Walking Dress on the right.
The 1809 Tyrolese Walking Dress is described as follows:
"A fine cambric or jaconot muslin round robe, with long plaited sleeves, and worked antique front; or appliqued lace. Elastic belt, confined behind with a bow and ends of ribbon. A plain shirt, with high collar, sitting close to the throat, and trimmed at the extreme edge with a plaiting of French net. A rosary and cross of blended gold and amber. A Tyrolese coat of shaded green, or drake's-neck velvet, lined throughout with amber sarsnet, and trimmed with gold or Chinese floss binding. The Amazonian helmet, composed of the same materials, ornamented with a patriotic band and bow, towards one side; a curled ostrich feather, tipped with gold, on the other. Slippers of amber velvet, with black bindings and rosettes. Gloves of York tan."
The 1812 Evening Dress is described as follows:
"A round robe of fine Georgian cloth, a pale olive colour, with full puckered sleeves, of white satin. The waist ornamented in horizontal waves of crimson and gold trimming; bows of the same at the pockets, and on the shoulders, and bordered at the feet to correspond. A French quartered cap, composed of satin and thread lace, ornamented with bows of net, and a wreath of barberries. The hair as a curled crop. A necklace consisting of a treble row of pearls, confined in the center with a large ruby. Ear-rings and bracelets to correspond. Pale lemon-coloured gloves below the elbow. White satin slippers, with silver rosettes; and a long occasional scarf of crimson Cashmire, richly bordered at the ends."
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General Observations on female dress for December 1809:
I must congratulate my fair readers on the dawn of a better taste as it regards winter fashions. I observe with pleasure, that crimson, purple, dark green, and brown, are likely to become the prevailing colours, with borders of black, gold, or ermine; and that scarlet, that terrible destroyer of female beauty, grace, and elegance, is consigned, I hope for ever, "to the tomb of all the Capulets." ...
It is the fate of innovators to be misunderstood and misrepresented: no wonder then that I, who have launched my venturous bark into seas unknown, and traversed paths hitherto untrodden, should meet with my share with interruptions and difficulties. With regard to my essay on harmony of colour, I am told, that a green dress is most in accordance with nature on my principles, because red flowers have green leaves; and, in consequence of my last month's essay on the form of dress, I am charged with recommending hoop petticoats and tight-laced stays, the one being analogous to a lusty lady, and the other to a female of a slender make. One lady (whom I have most unintentionally offended) has written a long rhyming epistle to Sir Arbiter Elegantiarum, which certainly contains more of reproof and advice, than it does of poetry or argument. She tells me, in "good set terms," that I know nothing at all about the matter: that all colours suit all characters and all complexions; and that the attempt to introduce any thing like taste in their arrangements, would be to rob the fair sex of half their charms. She draws her arguments from a flowery bank: to that flowery bank I would send her as to a school of harmony, and when she has maturely considered it, I shall be happy again to hear from her.
ARBITER ELEGANTIARUM.
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